The origin of the woven shawl is lost in the mist of time, legend and
tradition. The peculiar feature of the famous Kashmiri shawls of the 18th
and 19th century is that the design like tapestry is woven into the very
fabric of the cloth.
The spectacular pattern worked on the maroon base with golden zari thread
sets it in a class of its own. There is intricate intertwining floral and
foliate motifs. The main motif loops more like the face of a crown than one
having the kalga motif. The serpent, symbol of procreative male force, is
given particular attention by the Kashmiri artist. It forms the major part
of the field design, lending it a zoomorphic impact.
The wool at the base is of Merino sheep and the golden zari thread is
synthetic. The zari embellishment enhances the shawl's pattern and the
visual beauty. The border has a mihrab design, repeated on just two sides of
the shawl. A single unembellished line divides the border from the field.
The tassels at the ends are maroon and beige. The zari thread is made to
appear by replacing the shuttle used in ordinary weaving with a saris of
small, eyeless wooden bobbins known in Kashmiri as kani, each filled with
golden zari thread.
As one can tell by the look of it, this shawl is meant for weddings only.
Worn with a red or maroon sari or salwar-kurta, it does not require any
other ornamentation.
This description by Renu Rana
Textiles
heures depuis 2nd Oct, 2008
